| Miamber Burmilla and Burmese Incorporating Blackglama Australian Bombays |
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| Feline House Soiling Despite the cat’s reputation for fastidious cleanliness, house soiling is the number one behavior problem of our feline friends. Many cats are turned outside, given away, or even put to sleep for this behavior problem, and it behooves the veterinary profession to address it. Urinating in odd places can mean either a behavior problem or a medical problem and sometimes the difference is not clear cut. Cats often urinate in unusual places to get their owner’s attention when they are feeling unwell. Further, cats often urinate in unusual places in an effort to reassert their claim to territory, this need often arising from psychological stress and psychological stress can easily lead to a disease state called idiopathic cystitis or feline lower urinary tract disease. Some cats have purely behavioral motivations without illness. Some cats simply have litter box aversion. Should the Approach be Medical? Feline lower urinary tract disease (also called feline idiopathic cystitis and formerly referred to as feline urologic syndrome) involves straining to urinate, genital licking/discomfort, bloody urine, and often urinating in unusual places. There are many causes for this syndrome, including psychological stress. It may be hard to determine if a cat urinating outside the litter box has this syndrome and it is important to observe for the signs listed in addition to inappropriate urination. Cats with this syndrome often (but not always) receive a medically oriented approach addressing inflammation in the bladder. Your veterinarian should evaluate your cat before you conclude that the problem is behavioral and you embark on a long-term behavioral approach. Urine Marking / Territorial Anxiety Cats use urination and defecation as a means of communication with other cats. By leaving their mark, they are telling other cats “I was here on this date at this time.” Other cats may then know this land has been claimed (or has not been recently claimed) and may act accordingly. Psychological stress, such as the presence of other cats, prolonged absence of the owner (who is usually viewed as a parent by the pet cat), or other problems may create a need for a cat to reassert a territorial claim. Signs that this kind of stress is causing the problem might include some or all of the following: • Spraying on an upright surface. • Urinating in the litter box sometimes and sometimes urinating elsewhere (as opposed to never using the box at all). • Defecating in the cat box but urinating outside the box. • The cat (either male or female) is not neutered. • There has been a change at home leading the cat to feel he/she must reassert his/her territorial boundaries. (Examples: a new pet has been added, a new roommate has been added, a recent move to a new home has occurred, remodeling has been done, the owner recently returned from a vacation, other neighborhood cats are visible or can be smelled in the yard.) • The area marked is near a door or window. • The problem did not start until new furniture was added or the furniture was rearranged. • The cat appears to be responding to a punishment for another behavior. • The area marked involves the owner’s bed or laundry. • The area marked is the same each time. If any of these scenarios seem to fit, anti-anxiety medications may be tremendously helpful if the source of stress cannot be identified or cannot be altered. Medications commonly used as anti-anxiety treatments for inappropriate urination include BUSPAR This medication acts by blocking the effect of serotonin (a brain chemical). Studies have found this medication to be approximately 75% effective in reducing inappropriate urination. It is typically given orally twice a day for a 2-week period. If it seems to work, the course is continued for a total of 8 weeks. After this period, it may be discontinued. Approximately half the cats in whom it is used do not resume inappropriate urination. The other half re-develops the problem and must continue on BuSpar. CLOMIPRAMINE This medication has been helpful in the treatment of obsessive-compulsive disease and depression in humans and has been approved for canine separation anxiety. It has come to be the first choice of many behaviorists for urine marking cats. It has shown effectiveness at near 90% and in most cats requires only once a day dosing. FLUOXETINE This medication is more commonly known as Prozac®. It has been used for feline urine marking and has been found of comparable efficacy to clomipramine. At least 8 weeks of treatment was required to achieve results in over 90% of cats and as long as they took the medication, they did not mark. If the medication is discontinued, marking may resume but is just as likely to respond a second time if the initial treatment was successful. AMITRIPTYLINE This medication is also a neurotransmitter blocker. Statistics are not available regarding the success of this treatment but many veterinarians report success. This medication is inexpensive and generally only requires once a day administration. There are some heart related side effects and it is useful to check an EKG prior to treatment with to ensure that no untoward side effects are likely. VALIUM This medication has been associated with success rates between 55% and 75% but inappropriate urination often resumes when medication is discontinued. Because of a small population of cats who develop a life-threatening liver syndrome on this medication, it is important to check liver enzymes (by blood test) prior to and several days after starting. If no elevations are seen, the cat should be able to take valium without harmful side effects. Some cats develop excessive appetites and drowsiness with this medication. It was one of the first treatments published for inappropriate urination. The other medications listed here have largely supplanted it but we mention it in honor of its historical significance. Odor eliminators should be used in marked areas to discourage the cat’s tendency to return to these areas. A Word on Female Hormone Treatments In the past, female hormones (common brand names: Megace, Ovaban, and Depo-Provera) have been used to control inappropriate urination. These treatments have not shown as wide success as the newer medications listed above plus they have been fraught with serious side effect potential (mammary cancer and/or induction of diabetes mellitus). We recommend that these hormones be used only as an alternative to euthanasia. Feliway Spray Recently a new alternative treatment has become available in the approach to territorial marking. Feliway spray is a spray for the area being marked rather than a medication administered to the cat. The spray consists of feline pheromones of the type that cats deposit when performing facial marking (i.e., rubbing their face/cheeks on things to scent mark). These pheromones have a general calming effect that helps neutralize the urge to urine mark. The product is available as a spray to apply to marked surfaces or as a plug-in diffuser that spreads pheromones through the room. A recent study was conducted involving 57 households with urine spraying cats. These cats marked on either vertical surfaces only or a combination of vertical and horizontal surfaces. Feliway spray was used twice a day on the urine marked areas for a one-month period. In one- third of households, urine marking stopped completely. In 57% of the households, urine marking was reduced and in 9.3% of households marking was unchanged. Hunthausen, W. Evaluating a feline facial pheromone analogue to control urine spraying. Veterinary Medicine, Feb 2000, p 151 - 155 If Feliway spray is used, it cannot be expected to work if it is casually used. It should be used twice daily for at least one month before determining if it is effective. NEUTERING IS THE FIRST STEP IN ADDRESSING THIS PROBLEM. HORMONAL MOTIVATIONS TO MARK TERRITORY ARE POTENT AND MUST BE REMOVED FROM THE PICTURE. Litter Box Aversion Another reason why cats urinate or defecate outside the box is simply that the box is not acceptable to them. The box may be dirty, may not be adequately private, may smell funny or be uncomfortable. The following are clues that an inappropriate urination problem reflects litter box aversion. • Urination does not involve spraying vertical surfaces. • Both urination and defecation occur outside the litter box. • Two or more cats share a litter box (the current litter box recommendation is one box per cat plus one extra). • A new brand of litter is suddenly being used. • The box is covered. A covered bathroom area is highly unnatural for cats as they prefer better lighting for elimination and odors are concentrated in an enclosed area such as a covered box. • The box is not changed frequently. • The cat has had a negative experience in the box (the cat was captured from the box to receive medication or be disciplined). • The litter box is in a heavy household traffic area. • A puppy or dog (or even a small child) is bothering the cat in the box. • The litter box is located near a noisy appliance (such as a clothes dryer). Cats with this problem frequently require re-training to the box. As a first step, an additional box should be provided in a location separate from the original box. Many cats feel the box has been claimed by another household cat and are reluctant to use it or violate the other cat’s territory. Similarly, there may be some competition over the box between cats. In a single cat home, the cat may have experienced something unpleasant in association with the current litter box (molestation by a child or dog, loud noise etc.) and needs a new "bathroom area." It is important not to keep the cat’s food in a location near the box as the cat will not want to use the feeding area as a toilet. If the cat seems to have arthritis issues, a more shallow litter container may be better so the cat will not have to do any climbing or high-stepping. Obviously, any litter boxes should be scooped daily or even twice daily and kept as clean as possible. Clumping litter should be changed at least monthly and non-clumping litter should be changed twice weekly. The box should be washed with soapy water or water alone with no strong- smelling disinfectants that might be objectionable to the cat. We have had good experience with a litter additive called Cat Attract, which is an herbal product designed to return the cat to the box. We recommend including this product in the regimen. If the problem is difficulty in keeping the box clean, a self-cleaning box may be helpful. A litter box length should be at least one and a half times the length of the cat (not including the tail) so that the cat will have adequate space to maneuver and cover his or her excrement. As the next step, some other type of litter can be provided to see if the cat prefers a different brand or type. (Signs that the cat does not like the litter include: sitting on the plastic lip of the litter box to eliminate, failure to dig a hole in the litter, and/or shaking the litter off the paws after exiting the box.) If nothing seems to work, the cat should be confined in a small area, such as a large plastic carrier, with a litter box. The cat is gradually allowed more area after he/she has proven that he will use the box. (First, the carrier is the housing area, then a small room such as a bathroom or playpen is allowed, next a large room is added etc. until the cat again has his usual access.) If these tips are not effective in restoring the cat’s proper toilet behaviors, a behavior specialist should be called in. Please contact your veterinarian for the best consultant in your area. |
| BEHAVIOUR MATTERS - SPRAYING All cats, male or female, entire or neutered can spray. Territorial marking behaviour is more common with entire male cats but any cat may feel the need to scent mark their territory usually as a means of communication to alert other cats of their presence and to boost confidence by surrounding themselves with odours that are familiar. Such behaviour is usually manifest by the cat 'backing up' to the target and spraying or shaking a few drops of urine at said target. They don't squat to spray (as they do to urinate), but the tail lifts and quivers, and small puddles of urine are left in several consistent locations. Typically this is 'vertical' marking (walls, table legs, televisions) and typically the targets are revisited at regular intervals. Cats often spray around a cat flap or doors to make themselves secure and to signal their presence to invading cats. In the un-neutered cat, the urine not only signals the cat's presence but its status. Females in season have high levels of oestrogen in their urine to attract toms and they leave a highly pungent spray which is a combination of urine and secretions from anal glands under the tail. Spraying indoors is a sign that the cat is feeling stressed and needs to make itself feel more secure. When your cat rubs against your leg with his face, or scratches his scratching post, he is also depositing his scent from the glands in his cheeks and paws. Spraying announces a cat's presence, establishes or maintains territorial boundaries, and advertises sexual availability. Cats that spray are usually unneutered males and, to a lesser extent, unspayed females, but 10% of neutered males and 5% of neutered females also spray. In households with more than seven cats, the likelihood of spraying is high. Cats may spray when they perceive a threat to their territory, such as when a new cat enters the home, or when outside cats are nearby. New furniture and carpet smells can prompt spraying as well. Cats may also spray out of frustration resulting from factors—like restrictive diets, or insufficient playtime—often wrongly perceived by humans as revenge. How can I stop my cat from spraying? Because spraying is different than other types of house soiling, different tactics are necessary to manage it. First, because there are often hormonal components to spraying, any intact animal should be neutered or spayed. Next, identify the stimuli that cause your cat to spray. If outside cats are responsible, motion detectors that trigger sprinklers can be used to deter them from coming onto your property. Additionally, you can discourage your cat from looking outside by closing blinds or shades, or by placing double-sided tape or electronic mats that deliver mild shocks onto your windowsills. Address possible sources of frustration that may be causing your cat to spray. For example, introduce a new diet gradually, or discontinue it until the spraying is under control. Increasing the amount of playtime for an under-stimulated cat may also help ease frustration. Spraying can also result from territorial disputes between cats in the same household. They may need to be separated and reintroduced slowly, using food treats to reward and encourage peaceful behavior. Applying odor neutralizers anywhere your cat has sprayed may prevent him from spraying there again. Another useful commercial product is Feliway®, a synthetic pheromone that, when applied to household surfaces, mimics the scent of cat cheek gland secretions. Feliway is a synthetic pheromone which mimics the feel good pheromones cats produce. Many cats will not spray on areas that have this scent. If your cat is spraying in one location only, where possible you could place food & water bowls near the location as cats are clean animals & don't like to urinate/spray near their food source. If the problem persists speak to your veterinarian about seeking specialist help from a feline behaviourist. There are several anti-anxiety medications on the market which have proven helpful in reducing or completely eliminating spraying behaviour in cats. Progestins may also be recommended. Some of these drugs have contraindications & therefore it is advisable you speak to your veterinarian about possible side effects prior to using them so you can weigh up the pros & cons. If the problem is caused by two cats in your household not getting along it may be advantageous to keep the cats separated as much as possible. Another method is to try & foster a harmonious relationship between the cats. This can be done by creating positive associations such as playing with the cats together, feeding them together etc. You should never punish a cat for spraying by yelling, throwing an object, smacking or rubbing it's nose in it. All this will do is frighten your cat, increase it's stress levels & quite possibly cause it to spray more. How to clean urine spray? Cat spray has a pungent aroma which is unmistakable. The use of an enzymatic cleaner can help remove the odour. In Australia, many cat owners & breeders swear by a laundry powder called Bio-Zet. It is important you do not use an ammonia based product to remove the spray as this will lead your cat to believe another cat has sprayed there & therefore make the problem worse. There are many commercially available products on the market which can be purchased either from your veterinarian or local pet shop. Before you start, if you are having problems locating where your cat has urinated or sprayed use a black light. The offending area will show up using this method. Many products are on the market to remove cat urine odors but all are not equal. Cat owners who want to use a professional product should ask a veterinarian for a recommendation. Cat urine odours can also be removed with common household items and some old- fashioned cleansing. Locating pet urine: The simplest method is to locate cat urine stains, which can be done with the use of a black fluorescent light. Stains appear on furniture, walls, or carpet as a yellow splatter or spot. Pet Urine Removers: White vinegar is a time tried and proven ingredient that aids in removing both urine stains and the odour. Combine one part distilled white vinegar to two parts warm water to create a spray. Remove as much urine/spray as you can using a paper towels. Mist vinegar spray over areas of cat urine and rub with a paper towel. An alternative method is to mix the solution in a bucket and dip a clean cloth into the liquid. Rub the stain with the vinegar solution. After the vinegar dries, wipe away both solution and stain with warm water. Another simple to make spray uses 15 ounces of hydrogen peroxide, two tablespoons of baking soda, and two squirts of liquid hand soap. Mix in a plastic container with a plastic spoon. Discard after use. Apply this solution to cat urine stains or odour areas, and then rinse away with warm water. Another product which many cat owners & breeders use in Australia with great success is Bio-Zet, which is an enzymatic clothes laundry detergent. If you have washable cushions or the cat has urinated on your clothes this is a product you may want to try also. Removing urine from carpets: To clean carpets affected with cat urine odour, blot the stain or wet area with paper towels. Lay additional paper towels over the stain and press. Repeat several times then apply any stain and odour removal product. For best results, choose a bacterial/enzyme cleaner that will remove all parts of the urine stain as well as the odor. Then cleanse with carpet cleaner, rinse with warm water, and dry. If the stain has dried, dilute it with warm water before beginning the stain removal process. Removing urine from upholstery: Upholstery affected by cat urine odor and stains can also be cleansed. Blot stain with a paper towel and sponge with cold water. Blot away any excess moisture and clean the area with a solution made with two cups warm water and one tablespoon vinegar. Apply a stain and odor remover that is a bacterial/enzyme cleaner. Preventing cat urine/spraying reoccurring: If cat odour urine is a frequent problem, cat owners should take steps to prevent future recurrences. First, have the cat checked by a veterinarian who can identify any medical reason for excess urine spraying. If medical causes are ruled out, there are several things that can minimize and prevent urine incidents. Place litter boxes where the cat has been urinating. Put out lemon scent, food, sandpaper, or plastic where the cat has sprayed. Cats normally avoid urinating where any of these items is placed. Cats are sometimes stressed by outside events. If it seems that the cat is spraying in response to outside stimulus such as other cats or animals, block the view. Another option is to confine the cat to a clean area with a fresh litter box, water, and food. This should teach the cat that he or she is not to urinate on carpets or furniture. Praise the cat when urination takes place in the litter box. If cats use potted plants as a litter box, place a few pine cones or orange peel on top of the soil. Cats should avoid the plant if these scents are in place. You can also purchase cat deterrent sprays from your local pet shop which may be of use preventing your cat re-offending. Never use products with ammonia to remove cat urine odours. Urine consists of a large amount of ammonia and the lingering smell will encourage rather than discourage urination. Also maintain fresh litter in all boxes – cats are clean by nature and will refuse to use a dirty litter box. Cat urine odours can be removed and often prevented with basic products used with common sense. |